Croc Spotting

STEPHEN SCOURFIELD, TRAVEL EDITOR, The West Australian

March 23, 2012, 1:09 pm

DE MG Ranger Andy Reid at the helm on the Ord River. Picture: Stephen Scourfield/The West Australian

The Ord River snakes behind, flat and steel-grey in the darkening afternoon - slashed by the white wake of the boat.

Beside it, red bluffs pass, fired by the late sun.

This part of the East Kimberley's upper Ord, between Lake Kununurra and Argyle Dam, is naturally inhabited by Johnson freshwater crocodiles. Johnson's crocodile - Crocodylus johnsoni, the freshwater crocodile, the humble freshie - is not aggressive but not completely harmless.

But there has been a report that there may be a saltie here - the bitey estuarine crocodylus.

Department of Environment and Conservation wildlife officer Len Terry and DEC Miriuwung Gajerrong (MG) ranger Andy Reid are here to check, though Len does admit it's rather like looking for a needle in a haystack, on this long, wide stretch of silty river.

And particularly as tourists who see a big croc might think it's a saltie, and report it, when, in fact, it's not.

With Andy at the boat's controls and Len up on the bow, inside a big frame, the river is gently scoured. If they were to spot a saltie, they might come back with a trap (Len says it generally takes between two and seven weeks for a crocodile to be caught), might noose the snout, or harpoon him with small hooks and haul him in. "We use a lot of duct tape," Len says.

We end up not far from the dam as the light dies and then come back slowly, with Len spotlighting for croc eyes and giving instructions to Andy, who's driving in the dark now, with the beam of his torch.

I, of course, am sightseeing, the other chaps are working.

I'm pleased to have spotted three, maybe four, freshwater crocs and ask Len how many he reckons he saw. "A couple of hundred," he says. Of course, once you've got your eye in …

Back at the office the next day, DEC Kimberley regional manager Daryl Moncrieff asks how we went and I tell him about the interesting and enjoyable evening.

Yes, he says, and he can see potential for DEC croc-spotting trips for the public. "We could have the MG trainees and rangers telling people about the crocs and the country." And maybe another idea is born …

But there has been a report that there may be a saltie here.

The Final Frontier

STEPHEN SCOURFIELD, TRAVEL EDITOR, The West Australian

Updated March 23, 2012, 8:49 pm

Some of the Kimberley's wild places can be reached only by air or sea. You wheel in a great arc in a light aircraft over the high red, rocky plateau ranges and drop down to a scallop in the coast with a small retreat, set against a turquoise sea.

Kimberley special:
BEEHIVE YOURSELF
CROC SPOTTING

RICH REWARDS

Or you pull up on a beach knowing that, even if the Kimberley coast didn't have an extraordinary tidal range to wipe them away, there would be very few footprints in the sand before yours.

But it's not all like that - not by any means.

To get to many of the Kimberley's wild places, travellers have only to pull off the road and stroll a few metres from the carpark.

With some, visitors can camp in the heart of wilderness, or stay in comfortable accommodation.

And yet these are still wild places.

Indeed, the central Kimberley bioregion was recognised as one of the world's last true wilderness areas by Conservation International.

I have met earth scientists, biologists and naturalists who speak of the 424,500sqkm of the Kimberley in the same breath as Antarctica. Wild places. Last frontiers.

Its seasonality is part of the picture - part of its drama and charm and crucial to the environment. It has a tropical monsoonal climate, the wet season, November to March, and dry season, April to October.

In this guide, we pay special attention to the Kimberley's national parks, conservation areas and nature reserves - and to how they are managed, and their future.

We travel to wild places.

Barnett denies Browse gas hub obsession

AAP, The West AustralianMarch 22, 2012, 1:03 pm

Premier Colin Barnett has denied he is "obsessed" with industrialising the Kimberley, following a new move by his government to compulsorily acquire land for a $30 billion gas hub there.

The government re-advertised notices of its intent to compulsorily acquire 3500ha of land at James Price Point this week, after the original notices were ruled invalid by the WA Supreme Court.

The Kimberley community has been divided over the proposed gas hub, 60km north of Broome, and protesters have waged ongoing battles with its joint developer, Woodside Petroleum.

Conservationists have described the sparsely populated Kimberley as "one of the last great wilderness areas on earth".

Responding to a claim by WA Greens Senator Rachel Siewert that "the government remains obsessed by industrialisation of the Kimberley", Mr Barnett denied it was the case.

$700K to target tidal movements research

Updated March 15, 2012 14:26:36

• Map: Ningaloo

A new study of tidal movements along the north-west Western Australian coast is underway to help protect reef systems in the area.

The Australian Research Council has allocated $700,000 to the project, which will focus on the interaction of tides and reef systems between Ningaloo Reef and Camden Sound.

A marine scientist at the University of Western Australia, Ryan Lowe, will head the five-year study.

He says the work is long overdue.

"I'd say the Kimberley, and critically the inshore areas of the Kimberley, are some of the most poorly understood areas in the world," he said.

"There's very little scientific research that's been conducted and I think even globally, the area experiences the largest tides of any tropical area of the world, so a lot [of] the questions and research conditions are unique."

Professor Lowe says the findings will feed into management plans for newly created marine parks along the north-west coast.

"There's such a lack of just basic knowledge at this point," he said.

"The first priority is really to develop numerical models that can actually predict tidal movements over these very extreme, complex reef systems."

Kuri Bay: True luxury on a remote Australian coast

MERCEDEH SANATI

From Saturday’s Globe and Mail

Published Friday, Mar. 09, 2012 12:03PM EST

Kimberley Coast – With only three rooms and a completely off-the-beaten path location in northwestern Australia, Kuri Bay is set to become one of the most exclusive wilderness lodges on the Kimberley Coast. An almost two-hour seaplane ride from Broome delivers guests to a pristine outpost that was once home to the country’s oldest pearling company. Excursions to see hump-back whales, ancient cave art, and the horizontal waterfalls of Montgomery Reef trump any extraneous five-star frills (rooms don’t have TVs, telephones or air conditioning). Meals feature freshly caught fish, pearl meat and fine Australian wines. At $4,799 (Aus.) a person for a four-night all-inclusive package, staying at this remote hideaway doesn’t come cheaply. kuribay.com.au

Top End cyclone danger moved to Tuesday

THERE is a moderate risk of a cyclone forming late on Tuesday.

A weak tropical low has formed more than 100km north of the Arnhem coast in the Arafura Sea.

The low is expected to move west or southwest towards the Timor Sea and slowly deepen.

A cyclone could affect the Kimberley coast by this Wednesday.

Weather Bureau senior forecaster Rebecca Patrick said that the path of the low-pressure system was unpredictable.

"It may well move over land or water," Ms Patrick told the Sunday Territorian.

RELATED COVERAGE

• Cyclone risk increased to moderate
• Wet week ahead for Top End

YOUR SAY

"Look up the BOM 4 day forecast map, that always tells the most probable outcome. unlike the current media sensationalism."
Kenny

"There will still be a lot of rain," she said.

There is a low chance of a cyclone occurring today and tomorrow.

Ms Patrick said there will certainly be strong north-westerly winds if the trough moves to the west.

That will please Darwin surfers.

The low is in a weak monsoon trough over the Arafura Sea and is threatening to become more active as it moves closer to the Top End coast.

The Weather Bureau is warning of flooding today in the Top End.

Thunderstorms and isolated showers of up to 80mm may lead to localised flooding and higher water levels in creeks.

Darwin was hit by a few millimetres of rain yesterday, while Alice Springs is getting sunny conditions with temperatures in the mid-30s.

Adelaide River had the most rainfall in the 24 hours to the time of writing, with 51mm of rain.

Byrnec@ ntnews.com.au

New Wellness Retreat Launches on Kimberley Coast

The far North Kimberley’s iconic Kimberley Coastal Camp is set to launch its first yoga and wellness retreat this June.

Hosted by Ryoho yoga therapist and host of Australia’s Yoga TV – Kris McIntyre, the 3 day all inclusive package will feature meditation, nutrition, yoga, massage and reflexology at one of the world’s most secluded destinations. Guests are invited to experience intimate encounters with ancient cultures and rock art so old its origins are lost in time, native wildlife, pristine isolated beaches, bush walking, gourmet meals including fresh locally caught seafood, and luxurious beach front accommodation.

This unique opportunity to reconnect with nature includes a complimentary helicopter access only yoga session! Early birds can take advantage of the special EARLY BIRD OFFER – 10% off if booked before 10 April 2012.

Kimberley Coastal Camp is a small luxury wilderness lodge located on country know to traditional owners as Yalrundair, overlooking the Timor Sea. Open from late March to October each year, Kimberley Coastal Camp limits guests to just 12 and with access restricted to helicopter and float plane it is one of the world’s most secluded and unspoiled destinations.

The first Kimberley Coastal Camp wellness retreat will be held from the 9th to the 12th of June 2012. All inclusive packages departing Broome are $4936 per person or $4685 from Kununurra.

Telephone: 0417 902 006 Email: info@kimberleycoastalcamp.com.au

Web: www.kimberleycoastalcamp.com.au